Moving on from Lovćen, we hopped back in the car and made our way towards Lake Skadar. Perched on a western tributary of the lake is the picturesque village of Rijeka Crnojevića, it’s a gentle sort of place that sits idly in the sunshine serving up boat trips, lunches and tipples to passing tourists. It was a pretty sleepy spot in early June, that much is certain.
We hadn’t really planned on stopping for long, but a friendly local was hellbent on flogging us a trip on his boat – and who were we to deny him? So, we spent an enjoyable hour watching Skadar skid by. This part of the lake is covered by acres of water lilies, with well-used paths cut through them in places. These gave a good view of the local birdlife, but sadly I was without a long lens on this occasion (one day I’ll learn).
Regardless of any missing camera equipment, it was an enjoyable ride, with a wonderful sense of scale as the river opened up into the lake proper. But with only an hour on the boat we didn’t get too far into the open water. Turning back, we arrived safely into Rijeka Crnojevića in the late afternoon – a fine time of day to lazily sip on one of the local wines.
We were about as far away from the campsite as we were going to get on a day trip, so we headed back via Budva and a cursory nod at Sveti Stefan. This is Montenegro’s most famous sight, an island hotel that graced the cover of our guidebook – but it’s a private island the likes of us can’t step foot on. It’s also distinctly underwhelming to look at, so I wasn’t exactly in fits of envy. Really, I just thought it odd that it got so much attention in a country overflowing with natural beauty; the allure of cash and associated glamour, I suppose. At least the beach looked good.